filed under Activism | Food | West End
I like the Broadway Bistro. They make me happy.
7:07AM ON
08/19/2008
BY
Lansie Sylvia
Photo from GCPVD
When things in life go really, really wrong, I take a few hours to shake my fists at the heavens, talk a mean streak through my best friend’s ear, and then spend too much money eating somewhere other than my miserable kitchen. “Comfort food” is as much a culinary genre as “Italian” or “French fusion” at this point, with restaurants billing themselves as purveyors of brownie sundaes, home-style grits or macaroni and cheese “just like Mom used to make.” Beyond this marketing pretense lies a very serious undertaking: good food should comfort us. It should serve as a salve to the injuries of daily life and make things just a little bit better. Plus, nothing beats eating a great meal without worrying about the dishes. Living off-Broadway, when I need my version of comfort food, I walk over to the Broadway Bistro for their version of chicken potpie.
The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines a bistro as a “small or unpretentious restaurant.” Considering the puppy dog lounging out front and the menagerie of disparate pictures adorning the bordello colored walls, I’d say the Broadway Bistro fits this bill. Sitting outside watching boys and girls ride by on custom built bikes, film crews pack up their trailers after a day of hushing neighborhood residents and troupes of cinema buffs amble their way towards the Columbus theatre, I felt rooted in the place. I knew what I wanted as soon as I sat down. Luckily, my waitress handled my pushiness well and owner/executive chef Pat Lowney quickly delivered his Deconstructed Chicken Pot Pie.
Thicker than a chowder but not as chunky as a gumbo, the meat, vegetable and savory broth mixture was served in a deep white bowl with a spice-flecked biscuit resting atop it. Tucking into it distractedly, the first thing I noticed was how complimentary the flavors were. Rarely is thyme used to such success in meat dishes other than lamb chops, and the chicken soaked up enough flavor to compliment the slightly dry biscuit. As I started to pay more attention though, I noticed who the real star of this dish was: the unassuming potato! A perfect balance between being firm without hardness and tender without any mushiness, the potato was buttery and flavorful. Rarely do I pay any mind to so-called “stock” vegetables in soups, but those potatoes were perfect. They made the meal.
Here’s the thing about the Broadway Bistro: I go there all of the time. The waitresses are always sweet and competent. The food is consistently good, and there is always a complimentary ramekin filled with a tasty bit of sweetness to end the meal. In a world of uncertainty, what could be more comforting than that?
[The Broadway Bistro is located at 205 Broadway and opens every night at five for dinner. They serve until 2:00 AM on the weekends, and midnight-1:00 AM on weeknights, depending.]
August 19th, 2008 at 8:55AM
Desiree Says:
oh no! where are the chicken waffles on the menu?!
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August 19th, 2008 at 9:05AM
Jef Nickerson Says:
I’ve ate at Broadway Bistro 3 or 4 times and have never been disappointed. Although, last time I went, they changed the complimentary chocolate mouse to complimentary coconut rice pudding. I can’t really complain about complimentary, but I want my chocolate mouse back!
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