By Annie Messier

Judging by the six-thick crowded sidewalks on Thayer just now, Brown is back in full swing. Just last week we were on the crowded streets of Montreal’s Latin Quarter, sharing sidewalks with new and returning McGill students. Along the streets, hookah lounges were advertising themselves with lit-up pot leaves (no, they did not serve cannabis, nor is it legal to) and names like “Weedstock,” and students and tourists alike were eating it up, lining the streets to sit there spewing out vanilla-flavored tobacco and pretending it was Mary Jane. It was embarrassing to watch. Folks, if you like nothing else about Providence’s East Side, at least appreciate how Byblos lets us experience hookah (oh, and great food, too) with dignity and style.

If you haven’t been up to the lounge, it’s a real treat. The main room is decked out in low platforms topped with comfy cushions and oodles of bright throw pillows, and a side room has traditional tables and bar chairs. Authentic lanterns adorn the windows and Lebanese dance music fills the air. The hookah (argileh), which comes in 24 flavors, is filtered out immediately; there’s no haze or smoke to bother diners. Servers are quick to increase or decrease your charcoal and fulfill your needs, and smoking is intended to be a relaxing, social backing to good conversation, not a naughty night out. But despite the sophisticated, safe setting for hookah, the food is even better. Best bet is “mezza,” where you select various items from different categories (appetizer, veggie, meat, etc.). Two people can fill up sampling several dishes for $20, and groups can have a blast sharing even more types of food for more dough.

Their hommus is out of this world, as is their baba ghanouj (similar to hommus but made with eggplant). The dolma, or grape leaves stuffed with herbs, rice and spices and cooked in olive oil and served with dipping yogurt, is always delicious, as is the chicken shawarma (marinaded and cooked on a rotisserie; folks tell me the beef shawarma is great as well) and the tabouli. In fact, we haven’t gone wrong with anything we’ve ordered, although the moujadera (lentils cooked with rice and onions and topped with yogurt-cucumber sauce) was a little plainer than I expected and the veggie shish, which is out of this world, includes some hella-strong onions. Don’t kiss anyone who hasn’t shared your kebobs.

Finally, Byblos has some interesting and pretty delicious traditional Lebanese drinks: jellab, which is made from raisins (way tastier than it sounds); black raspberry juice; and rose juice—all garnished with floating pine nuts for the perfect crunch. I’d avoid the non-Lebanese juices such as mango-carrot and orange-carrot (they sound great but are disappointingly domestic) but take a chance with the Laziza, a non-alcoholic apple beer.

If you’re not into the lounge atmosphere, the same family runs the House of Wraps downstairs, featuring the famed Byblos burger (hamburger served on a bun topped with onions, tomatoes, french fries—yes, IN the bun—and Lebanese cole slaw. It’s huge and messy and supposedly out of this world). The place is always bustling, serving up delicious falafel and, perfect on a cold day, Mama’s lentil soup. Although Spartan in décor save for some posters of gorgeous views in Lebanon and some patio seating out back, it’s owned by the most friendly and hospitable family around. But really, don’t be afraid to mount those steps to the lounge. You’ll soon be leaning back on pillows, enjoying some unusual and great international tunes and feeling sorry for the folks outside missing out on a delicious and wonderful experience. Weedstock, indeed. Those Canadians don’t know what they’re missing.

235 Meeting Street, Providence / lounge opens daily at 7 p.m.

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