Frank & Laurie’s Now Open

Locals rejoiced when the paper finally came off the windows at Frank & Laurie’s, a new neighborhood spot for breakfast and lunch. Owners Eric Brown and wife Sarah Watts had already established a following at Thick Neck in the Dean Hotel, so anticipation and curiosity was high. Eric grew up in Wakefield, Massachusetts, near his maternal grandparents, Frank and Laurie.

Their home was the place where he learned what a perfect runny yolk is like, how dark to take a pancake, and that ranch is good on most things. Although we can never replicate these core food memories, we hope dining at our little corner spot will come close.

It appears that the menu is available all day, and is subject to change. The early crowd might prefer the biscuits and butter, pancakes with good syrup, or the steamed egg sandwich. Lunch can include anything from the soup, salad, or a ham and butter sandwich, to lamb meatballs with stewed beans and a piperade, or spaghetti with ramps and white anchovy and butter. I am personally happy to see a quiche on the menu. A good quiche can be heaven but they fell out of favor some time ago . . . about 1989.

The website also informs us: “We are embracing 20% auto-gratuity on all dine-in checks as a part of our service model to help provide consistent and equitable income for staff in a way that the traditional tipping system does not.” (This former waitress says hooray.) And no more math.

Hours: Wednesday thru Sunday, 10am to 3pm. No reservations. Take-out coming soon. Follow at IG.

Frank & Laurie’s, 110 Doyle Avenue, (directions)

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This shot of Mr. Brown includes the gorgeous teal coffered ceiling. The interior is warm and welcoming: One wall is paneled in wood, the counter is faced with blue and white tiles, and the floor is polished concrete. It feels like it’s already been there a while. Personal items dotted around include a stack of food books including apparent inspirations Charlie Trotter, Sharon Flynn, as well as local food royalty, George Germon and Johanne Killeen of Al Forno.

And check out the May edition of Providence Monthly for “The Ups and Downs of the Pop-Up Grind” and how Thick Neck transitioned from pop-up to residency in the Dean Hotel. (Anyone with dreams of starting a food-related pop-up . . . read this. It is hard work.)

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