A new fast-casual, open-kitchen restaurant featuring a Peruvian rotisserie/Chinese fusion menu has opened up on Admiral Street, courtesy of the Curi family of Los Andes fame. Those credentials will be enough to generate intense interest, but brothers Cesin, Omar, and Diego are bringing something new to the Providence food scene, and according to Gail Ciampa at the ProJo, the place has been an instant hit. Here’s why:
As you step up to the counter, the aromas are intoxicating. They have rotisserie chicken, a fried chicken, grilled Angus steak cooked on skewers and baby back ribs. Diners choose their meal and not one or two but three sides from a list that includes white or seasoned chaufa rice, beans, yuca or french fries, and plantains.
But every plate I saw had the noodle side dish, too. Lo Mein Chifero is their take on tallarin saltado, a Peruvian noodle dish. It’s excellent and lighter than the variety you’d find in an Asian restaurant.
So now I have to go back and try that lo mein. And that Angus steak. And I think I will eat in the next time. The vibe is lively and everyone behind the counter seems to be having a ball. I had a tasty broaster to go, but it was the sides that had me scraping the styrofoam. (The crispiness of the chicken had suffered a bit during the ride home, but that is always the case with take-out.)
I had the fried yuca, the beans, and the chaufa rice. There are five additional sauces available for 75¢: chimichurri, spicy hot, chille glaze, and jalapeño hot sauce. I took their recommendation of the aji polleria; I don’t know what it is, but I poured it over my beans and rice and I want more of that. And, like Ms. Ciampa, I loved the corn salsa, one of the cold sides.
They also have Peruvian beverages, margaritas, sangria, a selection of beers, and desserts including tres leches and churros.
As to the name?
The name reflects the fusion: Brasa (meaning rotisserie) and Chifa (Cantonese and Peruvian ingredients). . . The background is that Chinese laborers came to Peru in the mid-19th century to build railroads and work on cotton and sugarcane plantations.
Hence the wok-fried portion of the menu. There’s a lot left to investigate here. I’m going back.
There are several high communal tables with tall stools, and tables outside on the sidewalk, with heaters. Go here for menu.
Open seven days: noon to 8pm. Heading out Admiral Street it’s just past River Avenue on the left.
Brasa y Chifa, 712 Admiral Street, (directions)
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This system is familiar to everyone by now: Pick one protein; three hot sides; one cold side.